For the 22 years I’ve written on this area, I’ve all the time reserved the ultimate column inches of the yr to checklist my high ten meals of the earlier 12 months. This is this yr’s checklist.
10. Trattoria Mario, Florence — I first ate at Mario in 2011 with my spouse, 14-year-old daughter and 10-year-old son. We broke one in every of my typical journey guidelines which is to not revisit a restaurant twice on the identical journey. In that Florence keep over we ate lunch at Mario 3 times. Not a uncommon feat as we met locals who had eaten there each day for nearly 20 years.
Lately I deliver teams to Mario for lunch whereas we’re in Florence. Their lasagna — and the one at Leonida in Bologna — are the perfect examples of Italian lasagna I do know. They make it particular for us because it’s not on the menu. The kitchen at Mario could be very small for the amount they do. Really, nearly all the kitchens I frequent in that a part of the world are very small. They get quite a bit performed in small areas.
9. Trattoria Del Pesce, Bargino, Tuscany — For a very long time I stayed away from seafood in Tuscany. I all the time most well-liked the seafood I grew up with from the Gulf of Mexico. It took me some time however I’ve now turn out to be an enormous fan of the seafood that comes from the Mediterranean, particularly in Tuscany. They put together it so merely. Trattoria Del Pesce’s sauteed mussels and pasta with clams are unmatched for my part. Trattoria Del Pesce is a really good restaurant in the course of nowhere, within the very small Tuscan nation city of Bargino. Most individuals would move this place 99 instances out of 100. It might be their loss.
8. Restaurante Las Bellotas, Jabugo, Spain — When you ask me the place to search out the best ham in America, I can simply say that my good friend Alan Benton in Tennessee cures the perfect nation hams. When you ask me the place the perfect abroad ham comes from, that is a straightforward one, too. The Jamon Iberico in Jabugo, Spain is unmatched. This previous spring I led 25 individuals via Spain. Whereas a few of my visitors toured Seville, I took a dozen individuals out into the countryside to see how the black pigs are raised. We walked amongst them as they ate acorns beneath the cork bushes. From there we had a superb lunch and the perfect pork dishes I’ve ever eaten.
7. Piccolo Buco, Rome — I’ve been consuming at this restaurant since 2011. My all-time favourite pizza in Tuscany comes from a spot referred to as Vecchia Piazza. My all-time pizza anyplace comes from Piccolo Buco. Luca Issa is a grasp of pizza. His buffalo mozzarella is shipped from a small farm South of the town each morning. Throughout this meal in October my spouse Jill and I sat with our associates Jesse and Marina. It was nice catching up, simply the 4 of us. The truth that we have been consuming world-class pizza through the go to made it that a lot better.
6. Tapeo, Barcelona — It appears like 2022 was a yr for me to revisit a number of of my all-time favorites internationally. I fell in love with Tapeo over a decade in the past. Throughout my first go to to Barcelona I met chef Daniel Rueda and dined with him a number of instances. Since then, I’ve despatched tons of of individuals to that restaurant. It is my favourite tapas bar in a rustic stuffed with tapas bars. His patatas bravas is among the many greatest. However the best way he cooks pork ribs is excellent. I’ve lived within the South all my life. Folks take delight cooking ribs on this a part of the world. To my style, nobody can match what Daniel does in a small area off a small road in Barcelona.
5. Osteria Le Logge, Siena — As I used to be reviewing the notes in my 2022 meals journal, the be aware beneath this restaurant learn, “This braised beef cheek is likely to be the one greatest dish I’ve eaten in Italy. Ever.” Le Logge is a restaurant my good friend Marina has been making an attempt to introduce me to for 5 years. I had a favourite in Siena, and I could not fairly let go. My mistake. I ought to have listened to her a lot earlier. This meal was made particular since my journey teams had gone dwelling, and a bunch of our shut associates had flown over to spend per week with us. We shared this meal at lunch, and it was excellent.
4. Alla Vecchia Bettola, Florence — Earlier than heading off to culinary college this fall, my son moved to Florence and spent a number of months cooking within the kitchen of one in every of my associates. Whereas my spouse and I have been over there internet hosting excursions we met our son for lunch at Bettola. It is a locals-only restaurant simply exterior the previous metropolis partitions in Florence. Additionally it is the birthplace of penne alla vodka. It’s excellent and has rapidly turn out to be my favourite restaurant in Florence. He had already been there a month after we arrived and had found Bettola on his personal. There’s one thing particular about us sitting there with him having fun with world class pasta in an actual, genuine, setting.
3. Enzo, Ridgeland — Attributable to schedules it had been some time since my spouse, son, and daughter had all eaten collectively, simply the 4 of us. I cherish these instances. A couple of days earlier than Thanksgiving my son flew dwelling from culinary college and my daughter and spouse drove as much as Jackson the place I used to be already working on the new Italian restaurant. They picked him up on the airport and introduced him to Enzo the place the 4 of us shared a meal. It was the primary time we had all dined collectively in that area.
2. Pre-Welcome-Convention Dinner, An House Someplace in Chelsea, Manhattan, New York — In every other yr this might, by far, high my checklist of favourite meals of the yr. Although there’s one other entry forward of this one. Really, there ought to most likely be a 1A and 1B.
I used to be requested to talk at Will Guidara’s Welcome Convention in September. It was an enormous honor, and I took a fast break between opening a brand new restaurant and on the brink of go away to work abroad for six weeks to share my “One Factor” idea with a global viewers at Lincoln Middle. I actually knew nothing of the Welcome Convention earlier than I used to be invited to talk and flew up a bit naive as to the size and scope of the occasion.
Talking at Lincoln Middle was an excellent expertise. Although the dinner the evening earlier than was one of many extra memorable moments of my 60 years on the planet. Those that have been scheduled to talk the subsequent day have been there, together with those that would introduce us, a few sponsors and the 4 organizers of the convention. The items they gave out to the audio system have been probably the most distinctive and well-thought-out customised gifts within the historical past of speaker items, every distinctive with a singular backstory. The dinner was marvelous, the desserts have been glorious, however Guidara’s heartfelt presentation in saying every present might be one thing I’ll always remember and nearly too private to share on this area.
1.Per Se, New York—My spouse, daughter and I flew as much as New York final week. My son had simply completed his first semester of culinary college upriver in Hyde Park. He took the prepare down to fulfill us in Manhattan. We spent the subsequent 5 days and 4 nights — simply the 4 of us — consuming our approach via Manhattan and having fun with one another’s firm. The spotlight of that week — extra precisely the spotlight of the yr — was dinner at Thomas Keller’s Per Se. I had eaten there earlier than and have eaten on the French Laundry a number of instances. However by no means with my spouse and two youngsters. We’re a restaurant household. We dine out collectively on a regular basis. This meal was next-level good. Really, it was on the high degree of all ranges. It actually doesn’t get any higher. The night completed with a tour of the kitchen. Perfection.
Deliver on 2023
Onward!
Hattiesburg native Robert St. John is a restaurateur, chef and creator. He has written a syndicated weekly newspaper column for greater than 20 years.
