Rooster and dumplings from Wilson County Barbecue in Portland. Picture by Aimsel Ponti

Though Wilson County Barbecue in Portland opened earlier than the pandemic, I simply began going there in early Might.

I’ve now been a couple of half dozen instances and am pretty obsessive about the place, regardless of not having had any precise barbecue.

I’ve but to make it previous the hen and dumplings ($19, consists of hushpuppies or biscuit and two sides) as a result of they’re large for thus many causes – a significant one for me being the consolation the dish supplied throughout a really troublesome time.

My mom Louise was recognized with a mind tumor on April 24, and we misplaced her on Might 29. In that span of 5 weeks, I fell aside, and edible salvation got here within the type of a number of visits to Wilson County Barbecue.

Would you consider me if I instructed you that considered one of my mom’s nicknames for me was Dumpling? Certainly, it was, and a childhood reminiscence of mine is coming dwelling from faculty to see the crockpot on the counter with hen and dumplings cooking.

My mom, nonetheless, was not precisely a connoisseur chef (save for Thanksgiving dinner, which she slayed). However the hen and dumplings at Wilson County Barbecue? Downright epic. One of many proprietor’s grandmothers is called Teeny, and it’s her recipe. The “dumplings” are extra like vast, thick noodles, they usually burst with the flavour of the scrumptious broth they’re bathed in, surrounded by beneficiant shreds of hen. I can’t get sufficient, and I can’t cease ordering it even supposing I’ve caught glimpses of the infant again ribs, fried shrimp and the restaurant’s namesake providing.

What’s extra, the dish comes with both hush puppies or a biscuit and your selection of two sides. Hush puppies are fried cornbread fritters, however I haven’t tried them but at Wilson as a result of I can’t not get the biscuit. It’s maybe the very best I’ve ever had, with a elegant flakiness and a satisfying taste. It comes with somewhat container of honey butter that’s pure magic. In the event you ask, you may as well get a aspect of blueberry jam.

The edges at Wilson County Barbecue are their very own galaxy of excellence. The listing consists of smoked baked beans, cheese grits, mac and cheese, collard greens and mashed potatoes with gravy, amongst others. There’s additionally a day by day rotating aspect, and I can vouch for the macaroni salad in addition to the grilled corn.

Fried hen from Wilson County Barbecue. Picture by Aimsel Ponti

My associate, Tracy, has accompanied me to Wilson County on quite a few events, and her fixation is the fried hen ($16 for two-piece, $21 for four-piece, consists of hushpuppies or biscuit and two sides), and the fried hen sandwich ($18, consists of one aspect).

I handled her to lunch in alternate for some tasting notes. It was a straightforward promote.

It was a picture-perfect August afternoon, so we ate out on their spacious patio, till my well-earned concern of bees despatched us inside for the second half of the meal. However I’m not complaining, the within of Wilson County Barbecue is large and cozy with many seating choices, together with a sofa space and lengthy bar. Tracy stated the out of doors seating space is the very best she’s seen in Portland, with fireplace pits, giant picnic tables and semi-private areas with a number of crops round. I concur.

Tracy ordered the two-piece fried hen meal and selected chicken, which meant a breast and a wing. She instructed me that the coating was skinny and crispy and remained intact whereas she ate it. Subsequent time we’re there, she’s going to strive it with the Nashville scorching dip ($2 further). Tracy additionally raved in regards to the barely candy and completely tangy Cole slaw and shares my love for the biscuit. We each had the grilled corn that day, and she or he beloved the way it was evenly charred and salted. On earlier visits, she’s tried the Hoppin’ John (Southern-style black-eyed peas) and was unhappy it wasn’t on the menu that day. Belief me, she survived.

Tracy additionally needed me to be sure you point out how a lot we each appreciated how the meals got here out recent and scorching, because it’s cooked to order and never subjected to warmth lamp purgatory.

I like this place. It introduced me consolation after I wanted it most and now I’m a buyer for all times.


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