What’s the logic behind the meals deemed appropriate for the British breakfast? Historically, we eat bacon however not ham, kidneys however not liver, haddock however not cod, kedgeree however not curry. I do know there are particular person and regional variations, however the taboos nonetheless appear eccentric.
Matthew, Aberystwyth

Full English Breakfast served on a cafe style blue table – eggs, bacon, sausage, beans, mushrooms and grilled tomato. Served with toast, coffee and a fresh orange.

There is no such thing as a logic, as a result of it isn’t truly a really previous custom – look again at Victorian or Edwardian breakfast menus, and all the pieces was truthful sport, from pasta to pickled herrings, mutton chops and onion soup. I believe the trendy “guidelines” about what’s and isn’t breakfast meals come up from the truth that today a cooked breakfast is usually consumed exterior the house, in busy cafes with cramped kitchens, which limit them to a sure, a lot smaller collection of dishes – favouring pretty low-cost, straightforward to organize meals with an extended shelf life and huge enchantment, resembling bacon and eggs, somewhat than turbot au gratin or devilled pheasant.


I like spaghetti carbonara, however don’t eat meat. I’m additionally not eager on “not bacon” as a result of it’s processed nonsense. Any strategies?
Michael, Manchester
I typically make a type of carbonara with strips of courgettes, somewhat than pork, and it’s scrumptious, however it doesn’t hit the umami spot you’re in search of. I believe the most effective substitute is perhaps mushrooms, reduce into lardon shapes and fried with just a little garlic and a pinch of smoked paprika, as the bottom of the sauce. Let me know the way this goes – I’m fairly intrigued now.

Felicity Cloake’s perfect vegetarian chilli.
{Photograph}: Ola O Smit./The Guardian. Meals and prop styling: Frankie Unsworth.

I believe my cooking is boring. I’d prefer to make extra meatless dishes – eg, lentils, beans, and many others – however don’t know how you can spice them up or make them kid-friendly.
Kate, North Carolina, US
Snap – I’m additionally making an attempt to eat extra beans and pulses for the time being. I believe a simple method to have a look at it’s to consider your favorite meat dishes, and use those self same flavours with greens, beans or no matter – consider a bean chilli or courgette carbonara, for instance. It sounds apparent, however acquainted flavours and reference factors are a great way to get children, specifically, to strive new issues, particularly if they’ll add cheese or ketchup on high. Don’t be afraid to be daring together with your seasoning – greens and pulses can take it – and think about investing in a e book or two for inspiration (I’m now the proud proprietor of two books on bean cooking).


What are your favorite cheats and timesavers? Are there any (not so) responsible secret jars and pastes that you just use to shortcut to the straightforward life?
Lawrence, Hong Kong
After I’m not testing recipes, I are inclined to hold cooking fairly easy, so although there are some wonderful time-saving pastes and sauces available on the market, they don’t play a giant half in my life. Issues I do often have readily available to make life simpler: jars of fried shallots for topping noodles (you by no means remorse having some good high quality instantaneous noodles knocking round for a fast dinner with a boiled egg and a few chopped greens or pickles on high); Gentleman’s Relish for including savoury oomph for completely all the pieces (Marmite additionally works nicely if cooking for vegetarians, and, with butter, makes a superb sauce for dried pasta); frozen whole-leaf spinach and sauerkraut or kimchi for when you have got completely nothing contemporary in the home; pecorino or parmesan; eggs; tinned fish (I’m a sucker for sardines on toast); and chilli oil, for sticking on the entire above.

Cloake’s favourite: Jane Grigson, author of the Observer Guide to British Cookery.
{Photograph}: John Wildgoose/The Observer

Who’s your favorite cookery author?
Craig, Yorkshire
That’s a extremely powerful one, as a result of I’ve many, however somebody who I don’t assume will get sufficient recognition right this moment (maybe as a result of she’s typically overshadowed by her extra well-known pal, Elizabeth David) is Jane Grigson, who was for a few years the Observer’s cookery columnist, and an endlessly curious, quietly erudite author whose recipes are each dependable and a jolly good learn.


I’ve by no means had a lot doings with new-fangled issues, however with my daughter now off to uni, and a restricted funds, I’ve invested in a combi oven that apparently has a microwave, grill, oven and air fryer. Why do I have to fry air? Please assist. I’m fairly a conventional cook dinner, so how do I regulate to this new single particular person with no ravenous teen to fill life?
Toni
, Sheffield
Although the air fryer is, in my view, misleadingly named, provided that it’s truly a tiny oven, somewhat than any type of fryer, I believe you’re going to seek out it extraordinarily helpful, as a result of it lets you cook dinner small quantities of meals shortly, relative to a typical oven, and utilizing far much less power. Something you’d like crisp, somewhat than microwaved, is an effective candidate, from single cookies to roast greens to sausages. You may even make fairly respectable chips in there, with out the necessity for gallons of oil.

A baked potato: try microwaving first to save energy.
{Photograph}: robynmac/Getty Photos/iStockphoto

You probably did a How to cook the perfect jacket spud again within the days of cheaper power, however what’s the most cost-effective approach to cook dinner one now? It’s a favorite consolation meal for a lot of, however with power costs as they’re, it is going to be coming off many individuals’s menus, which might be a disgrace, except you’ll be able to inform us how you can cook dinner them for much less.
Ben, Ipswich
I requested Dr Christian Reynolds, senior lecturer on the Centre for Meals Coverage, Metropolis College, London, about this not too long ago, and he recommends cooking them by way of within the microwave, then briefly crisping up the skins in a sizzling oven to complete – ideally, one you’re utilizing for one thing else (as a result of who would put the oven on for only one meal today?). It’s not an ideal answer, however it’s higher than going with out jacket potatoes.


My associate can not eat garlic or onion. What are the most effective options?
Alan, London
I’m assuming this implies different members of the identical household, resembling leeks, shallots, wild garlic and spring onions, are additionally out? In that case, it’s a tough one, as a result of alliums have a particular, nearly sulphurous flavour that’s troublesome to recreate, although sauteed, finely chopped celery and inexperienced pepper or carrot will make an honest base for stews, soups and so forth with out them, whereas fennel has the same texture, if a somewhat totally different style. Jain and Brahmin Indians, who keep away from onion and garlic for non secular causes, typically add a pinch of asafoetida, or hing, to meals as a substitute – don’t be postpone by the scent of the powder: as soon as cooked, it blends seamlessly into the opposite components so as to add a refined, however particular savoury observe. The truth is, when you’re each eager on Indian meals, their recipes is perhaps value trying out.

Felicity Cloake’s perfect chocolate cake: but how much chocolate to use?
{Photograph}: Lizzie Mayson/The Guardian. Meals styling: Tamara Vos. Prop styling: Anna Wilkins

I’ve been making your superb Perfect Chocolate Cake for greater than a decade, with various success. I might love to be extra decisive when taking it out of the oven; I typically go away it longer, pondering it’s too wobbly on high, however the top outcome then finally ends up just a little dry. The opposite factor is, the place do you stand in terms of the cocoa share within the chocolate used? Is 55% OK?
Annie, Hertfordshire
Oh pricey, I’m hoping that “various success” refers solely to how presentable the cake seems – in my expertise, even an under- or overbaked chocolate cake continues to be scrumptious (when you drastically overbake it, it’s fairly good damaged into chunks and tossed by way of Greek yoghurt or crumbled on high of ice-cream, perhaps soaked in a fruit syrup or a little bit of booze to moisten it first). Ideally, nonetheless, it will be excellent, and which means it has a crust that’s fully set on high, however which, when you shake it, has simply the slightest trace of a wobble within the centre: not a wave throughout the entire cake, however not a stable biscuit, both. Take a cautious observe of timings when you obtain perfection, as a result of each oven differs. Concerning the chocolate, it’s largely a matter of style – particularly, how intense you need the cocoa flavour to be and the way candy your tooth is. I have a tendency to make use of 70% cocoa chocolate to check, however when you want 55%, by all means use that. A part of the enjoyment of cooking for me is making a recipe my very own. Good luck.


Do you have got any recommendation on how you can make vegetable inventory?
Bridget, Birmingham
The pungent, dried celery notes of some industrial vegetable shares spoil them for me, which is why I have a tendency to make use of hen as a default (it has a extra impartial, savoury character), however a greater answer is to make your personal. My golden rule is to consider the steadiness of flavours (nearly something however bitter brassicas and starchy spuds will work, however when you go too heavy on the foundation veg trimmings, say, you’ll find yourself with a really candy inventory); carrot tops, onion ends and celery are an excellent base. Mushrooms add umami, and different herbs and greens (garlic, ginger, chives, fennel tops, spices and many others) might be added to style. For a extra intense flavour, roast or saute the veg in oil or butter first, to caramelise them, and think about including dried mushrooms, seaweed or tomatoes, too. And don’t overlook to season it.

Felicity Cloake’s sweet potato fries.
{Photograph}: Dan Matthews/The Guardian

I like chips, however I’m making an attempt to eat extra veg and I can by no means get candy potato wedges crisp sufficient or chip-like. They flip right into a soggy clump if too thick and burnt matchsticks if too skinny.
Diana, Manchester
A couple of issues: rinse them first, to get as a lot starch off the floor as doable; par-boil, so the outsides don’t burn earlier than the middles are cooked by way of; and coat them with one thing that can crisp up, resembling seasoned cornflour. And I’m afraid that, as with bizarre chips, for best results you really need to fry them somewhat than bake them. I’d apologise, however the outcomes are so scrumptious that I don’t assume you’ll remorse it.


I bake two gluten-free truffles that I like: Gino d’Acampo’s bella caprese and Nigella’s Venetian carrot cake (because of your pointer from the perfect carrot cake). I’m searching for others. What are you able to counsel?
Marcie, Huddersfield
The basic that springs to thoughts is Claudia Roden’s famous orange and almond cake, in her Book of Middle Eastern Food, a easy recipe that has spawned a thousand imitations (Roden herself received it from her brother’s first spouse’s Syrian grandmother). She additionally has a beautiful Turkish walnut cake in her latest e book Med that might match the invoice, and, unsurprisingly, I like the pink grapefruit and pistachio cake from my very own e book, The A-Z of Eating. In case you’re sick of nuts, polenta is one other superb gluten-free possibility for dense, sticky truffles that tackle different flavours, resembling fruit or spice, superbly – Yotam Ottolenghi has an orange one, Russell Norman a Venetian lemon model, Nigel Slater provides gooseberries and elderflower… you get the thought. Lastly, I haven’t seen it myself, however Katarina Cermel’s e book of gluten-free recipes, Baked to Perfection, gained a Fortnum & Mason award this yr, so it’s most likely value investigating for additional inspiration.


What are the important thing issues for failsafe, attractive gravy for roasts, with a great deal of flavour. Gravies that use the juices from the joint, thick sufficient to pour, however not too runny?
Susannah, Milton Keynes
I might say an important consider good gravy is open mindedness: even the most effective meat typically, inexplicably, yields little or no to the roasting pan, which is when you have to deploy your culinary arsenal. If, when you’ve scraped the pan with boiling water, it nonetheless lacks that savoury oomph one so dearly hopes for in such circumstances, add some inventory and let it bubble away to cut back – and don’t be too proud to stir in just a little Marmite or soy sauce for an additional umami hit, if needed. I additionally like so as to add a splash of madeira or sweetish sherry (or port with crimson meat) to present a extra rounded flavour, although you’ll be able to substitute a spoonful of one thing resembling redcurrant jelly (a pal of mine makes probably the most unbelievable gravy, and, when questioned, often confesses to having simply added the contents of assorted almost-empty jars), whereas mustard or horseradish are helpful for giving beef gravy a little bit of a kick. When you’re proud of the flavour, stir just a little gravy right into a spoonful of cornflour or bizarre flour to make a clean paste, then stir again into the pan and cook dinner till the gravy has thickened to your required consistency. Briefly, although we’d all like to make nice gravy from meat juices alone, typically they want a little bit of assist, and that’s tremendous.

Baying for more: Close-up of dried bay leaves for cooking on a white background.
{Photograph}: Jose A Bernat Bacete/Getty Photos

What’s the purpose of bay leaves? We have now a large bay tree, and I put them in stews and casseroles, however I’m by no means certain in the event that they make the slightest distinction. Any recipe that requires 100 of the issues could be nice, as a result of we’ve a nearly limitless provide.
Martin, Surrey
Bay is often the supporting refrain, somewhat than the soloist, which suggests its faintly medicinal flavour blends into the background to present a refined, savoury observe that, whereas it gained’t make or break most dishes, does add to the sum of their components. (In case you’re uncertain whether or not yours style of something in any respect, make a bay tea by boiling some up on their very own: you’ll discover that they certainly do, plus the tea will make your kitchen scent beautiful.) The leaves dry or freeze nicely, and make a beautiful flavouring for a custard or pannacotta; you too can flip them right into a flavoured salt to be used with meat or fish, or, maybe extra enjoyable, make a liqueur with them: Sophie Grigson has a beautiful wanting recipe for an Italian liquore di alloro on her blog that makes use of 60 entire leaves!


How do you cook dinner a meal for 30p? For context, I’m a chef who runs group cafes and cooking lessons.
Anon, Edinburgh
With nice issue, I’m sorry to say, when you add in the price of gasoline, the value of components for individuals who can’t afford to buy in bulk, or batch cook dinner and freeze. After I used to volunteer at a local people cooking challenge, the emphasis was on how you can store to get the most effective worth – going to markets, somewhat than supermarkets, for instance, or wanting within the “world meals” aisle for issues resembling rice and spices, however these simply aren’t choices for a lot of, particularly in rural areas. A straightforward reply is to make pricy components resembling meat the flavourings for cheaper fillers resembling beans, carbs or greens, and to not overlook about issues like eggs and tinned fish as a protein supply. To be trustworthy, although, I believe most individuals know all that already, they usually’re nonetheless struggling.

Blind baking is an art…
{Photograph}: Dan Mathews/The Guardian

How can I bake the most effective shortcrust tart or quiche circumstances? They should maintain their form, be strong sufficient to get out of the tin intact, soften within the mouth … How lengthy do I blind bake for? What’s the finest ratio of various fat? Ought to I brush with egg and bake once more earlier than including the filling? Ought to I trim it heat or chilly? What ought to I exploit to trim it? Ought to I go away it to chill fully earlier than taking it out of the tin? There are so many pitfalls.
Rachel, Otley, West Yorkshire
Pastry is a tough mistress, and even probably the most skilled cook dinner can find yourself with a wonky facet or cracked base. As somebody who lacks the endurance and delicacy of the true patissier, I’ve just a few suggestions. Laborious fat, resembling vegetable shortening or lard, give a extra delicate texture, however butter offers the most effective flavour, in order that’s what I have a tendency to make use of. The usual ratio is half as a lot fats to flour, however you’ll be able to enhance this for a richer, however barely extra temperamental outcome – nonetheless a lot you employ, watch out to not overwork the dough as you rub it in, or the pastry will likely be powerful. Most significantly, nonetheless, hold all the pieces as chilly as doable for so long as doable; many recipes not solely advocate chilling the fats, however the flour, rolling pin and even the marble slab you’re engaged on, when you occur to be fortunate sufficient to personal such a factor. Get the dough out of the fridge 5 to 10 minutes earlier than rolling it out skinny – 5mm is protected, 3mm when you’re feeling skilled. Be sure you get the edges of the pastry at a proper angle with the edges of the tin whenever you line it, then chill once more earlier than baking. Trim the overhanging edges, line with baking paper and dry beans or rice, and bake till the highest is golden. Take away the liner and beans, and return to the oven till the bottom is evenly golden. (In case you’re utilizing a extremely moist filling, or find yourself with cracks, brush the bottom with overwhelmed egg at this stage, however it’s not usually needed.) And, sure, go away it to chill earlier than eradicating from the tin.


What on earth do you do with all of the meals you cook dinner for the How to cook the perfect… column?
Jezz, Tunbridge Wells
I eat it. Actually, it relies upon – I attempt to put it in entrance of as many individuals as doable to canvass opinion, which suggests typically I find yourself having individuals over for dinner and making them eat 5 totally different variations of the identical dish in return for a pithy quote on every, and typically I lug them over to the Guardian workplace for a similar function. Baked items are often nicely acquired on the native meals financial institution, some stuff will get frozen and, fortunately, I’m not too proud to object to consuming the identical factor 4 days in a row. Neither is the canine.


My German associate and I run a small, English-themed B&B in Germany. Our full English breakfast is far admired, however we’re typically requested for baked beans, as a result of they’re seen right here as sometimes English. We attempt to clarify that baked beans are an American innovation and don’t have any place in a very English breakfast, although I’m wondering if we’re being pedantic – in spite of everything, one would possibly use the identical argument about tomatoes. How a lot time has to move for an ingredient to grow to be a component of a conventional dish, and may we even care?
Paul, Germany
First, let me say I like the thought of an English-themed B&B – can I come and keep? Whereas I’m not a fan of baked beans on a fry-up – like Alan Partridge, I’ve a horror of beans touching egg – I have to concede that they’ve grow to be so embedded in British tradition that Heinz doesn’t even promote baked beans within the American market any extra, they usually’ve most likely been included in cheaper variations of the total English for nearly so long as that time period has been in existence. (It first pops up in 1933, and till the postwar interval appears to have referred merely to eggs, bacon, toast and marmalade, somewhat than the entire taking pictures match we see right this moment.) You’re proper, nonetheless, {that a} grilled tomato is the pondering particular person’s alternative. Beans belong on toast.

  • Felicity Cloake’s new e book, Purple Sauce Brown Sauce: A British Breakfast Odyssey, is revealed by HarperCollins at £16.99. To order a replica for £14.78, go to guardianbookshop.com





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