One in every of fictional sweet maker Willy Wonka’s signature merchandise was a magic gum that, when chewed, sequentially launched the flavors of a three-course meal.
The broth of the Shoyu Ramen, the signature dish at Oni, jogged my memory of that. A mere sip reveals layers of taste, from greens and aromatics to pork, savory and a bit of bit candy, and at last, the fatty marrow. It’s the form of alchemy that comes from talent, expertise and persistence. Be suggested: it’d spoil you for all different soups.
Oni chef and co-owner David Gaspar de Alba developed his craft at a Portland, Oregon, izakaya, the Japanese model of a tapas bar. Stints at Radish & Rye in Santa Fe and Artichoke Café deepened his devotion to native sourcing, and he discovered a kindred spirit in Daniel Linver whereas working at a farm in Corrales.
Gaspar de Alba and Linver launched Oni as a meals truck in 2017 and rode a wave of success, together with recognition as a “must-try meals truck” from Meals Community, to a brick-and-mortar spot final spring.
Oni serves as a bookend to the El Rey Theater on the south facet of Central between sixth and seventh. There’s a paid parking zone throughout the road and plenty of metered parking on the streets close by.
The high-ceilinged house is embellished with murals from native artists. A rendering of an octopus stretches its tentacles throughout one nook. The restaurant’s namesake oni, a horned ogre of Japanese folklore, leers from a mural above the bar. Attire embellished with these figures is obtainable on the market, together with an assortment of house-made chili oils, scorching sauces and togarashi, the chili-based spice combine so widespread in Japan.
A weekday lunch hour noticed a good turnout, regardless of all of the dire information across the omicron variant. Ordering and paying was finished at a register simply contained in the door.
Oni’s menu is split into small and huge plates, with many of the small plates coming in beneath $10 and the massive plates topping out at $15. Virtually every part is of Japanese origin; exceptions embrace steamed buns and kimchi. Specials are written out in marker on a brown paper scroll by the register. Latest choices included Kusshi oysters, candy miso cod and smoked brisket ramen.
A few small plates announce that the cooks right here usually are not shy about taste and warmth. A pile of Charred Edamame ($6), ordered for takeout, was painted with a rusty orange roasted garlic-citrus puree dotted with black sesame seeds. The sauce and the togarashi conspired to set the tongue ablaze, turning an often-dull appetizer into one thing memorable.
A plate of Shiitake Dumplings ($8.50) obtained an identical remedy. Below a shroud of greens, lower matchstick skinny, and a slick, spicy coat of fried garlic chile oil, the mushroom-filled dumplings have been as meaty as any pork-stuffed model. Just like the edamame, it’s a well-known dish elevated to higher heights.
A particular of Agedashi Ramen ($8) resembled an unopened Christmas current, the block of tofu piled with pale-pink bonito flakes like a present field with a ribbon on high. The tofu was coated with potato starch and fried, leaving a crisp shell and a spongy coronary heart that soaked up the tsuyu sauce, a wealthy, soy-based mix brimming with umami.
4 noodle dishes make up the massive plates part of the menu. The aforementioned Shoyu Ramen ($14) will get its title from a Japanese-style soy sauce that’s significantly extra intense than what you’ll discover on grocery store cabinets. The broth was crowded with mushrooms and strips of smoked pork stomach so fatty they melted within the mouth. A sluggish egg carrying a racing stripe of togarashi burst with one jab from the chopstick, lightening and enriching the elegant broth. The noodles have been pleasingly al dente.
Because the Shoyu Ramen captures the style of pork, the Pecan Ramen ($14) does the identical for New Mexico’s high business meals crop. Within the to-go model, the ruddy broth was served in a single container; the opposite held a fabulous presentation of tofu strips braised in tamari soy, baked after which pan fried. The broth, extra buttery than candy, was unbelievable, and the tofu added each taste and textural variation.
Service was brisk and amiable, and the meals got here out rapidly. Lest there be any doubt that he’s a passive investor within the enterprise, co-owner Linver buzzed across the eating room, serving, clearing tables and answering questions.
Gluten-free, vegetarian and vegan choices are clearly marked on the menu – a refreshing, all-too-rare sight at space eating places. Three of the 4 noodle dishes might be made gluten-free by swapping out the ramen for yam noodles.
Drinks embrace a choice of sake and a Japanese candy potato ale.
After a couple of years on the highway, Oni has discovered a house Downtown, and all indications are that it’s prone to change into a fixture there.
