When you’ve got any doubts in regards to the want of Bally’s Corp. to return Bally’s Atlantic City to relevance (to not point out sustained profitability) after years of benign neglect on the a part of its former proprietor, you solely must hit the midtown on line casino’s sixth ground. That’s the place you’ll discover Jerry Longo’s meatballs & martinis.

Positioned adjoining to Guy Fieri’s Chophouse, Longo’s opened within the spring. That it changed the generically bland Buca di Beppo, a nationwide chain, speaks volumes in regards to the route through which Bally’s is headed.

The informal, unpretentious eatery that gives dramatic skyline and ocean views is the fourth outpost for the operation based within the Federal Hill part of Windfall, R.I. (suppose South Philadelphia with a New England accent) greater than 30 years in the past by Jerry Longo, a South Philly native who entered the restaurant enterprise after a profitable profession as a on line casino govt. There are additionally eateries at two different Bally’s properties: Twin River Casino Hotel in Lincoln, R.I. and Dover Downs Hotel & Casino in Delaware’s capital metropolis. The unique restaurant years in the past outgrew its authentic location and at present calls close by Westerly R.I. dwelling.

Whereas the flagship location has modified its deal with and been joined by the opposite three, Longo’s core working philosophy stays fixed: The supply of the type of meals on which generations of Italian-Individuals had been raised in a well-recognized, welcoming environment.

In line with Frankie Storione, the corporate’s old-school model ambassador and Longo’s lifelong buddy, the significance of meals to Italian-American tradition is the driving precept. His individuals, causes Storione, “Eat to dwell and dwell to eat. We’re speaking about what we’re having for dinner whereas we eat lunch. An hour after dinner, my father would ship my brother to go purchase banana splits; when he got here again, he’d ship him for Chinese language meals.”

As such, the menu evokes the type of “purple gravy” joints present in neighborhood Italian spots in Philadelphia, New York and different massive cities. Which means such staples as fried calamari (completed “Rhode Island fashion” with fiery; vinegar-doused cherry peppers); eggplant rollatini; spaghetti with crab gravy topped with jumbo lump crab; hen Milanese and meatball salad. However the invoice of fare at Bally’s additionally contains some less-familiar dishes.

One is Bucatini all’ Amatriciana, a pasta dish made with guanciale (pronounced gwaan-CHAA-lay), which Storione explains is produced from the cheek of the pig. One other is Prenestino (Signature di Roma), a pizza made with mascarpone cheese (in addition to mozzarella) and potatoes. All 4 of the menu’s pizzas are rectangular, not spherical, and are ready “Roman-style,” which suggests their crusts are extra akin to thinner, crispier focaccia than to the chewier crusts to which Individuals are extra accustomed.

And whereas Longo’s pays homage to bygone eras, it actually acknowledges modifications in Individuals’ diets. “We have got gluten-free dishes,” gives Storione. “We make vegetable dishes with gluten-free pasta. We attempt to accommodate all people.”

It’s necessary to notice that whereas Longo’s value factors are commensurate with different upscale AyCee-casino eating places, the parts are more-than-generous: Most dishes can simply be shared by two (or extra) adults.

However top-shelf Italian meals is hardly scarce in Atlantic Metropolis casinos. What units Longo’s other than the pack is its surroundings. For example, guests are greeted by two blackjack tables (that are operated—and, says Storione, extraordinarily popular–on weekends). The partitions are full of images of Longo with celebrities; pictures and portraits of the late James Gandolfini of The Sopranos predominate as he and Longo had been particularly shut. Nonetheless, just one bold-faced identify, veteran character actor Richard Jenkins (Berlin Station), is immortalized on the menu, which informs patrons that the spaghetti and meatball providing is his “favourite.”

Followers of Martorano’s at Harrah’s Resort Atlantic City will discover a few points the 2 joints share (enjoyable truth: Longo and Steve Martorano are mates from their South Philly childhoods). As does Martorano’s, Longo’s screens classic movies on wall-mounted video screens. And like Martorano’s, Longo’s converts into an after-dinner-hours dance membership. However whereas Martorano’s sticks to a weight loss program of gangster movies, Longo’s goes with basic black-and-white flicks (e.g. On the Waterfront and Casablanca). And whereas Martorano’s favors extra up to date sounds, pop-and-rock hits of the Sixties and ‘70s are pumped over Longo’s sound system.

And since dancing can induce starvation, Longo’s has a reasonably priced, Friday-and-Saturday-late-night menu that includes such dishes as wings, cheesesteaks and a South Philly staple, pepper-and-egg sandwiches.

In line with Storione, the tunes and films are half and parcel of the eating room’s aim of bringing patrons again to completely different, possible extra nice, factors of their lives.

“They had been completely satisfied occasions,” he says. “And I wish to assist individuals recreate that. If we get their minds off of what is going on on for an hour or two, then we did one thing good.”



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